THURSDAY NIGHT TASTING 6-8PM:
What says Valentine’s day more than singular, razor sharp wine from unheralded grapes in obscure areas of Spain? We mentioned before that Ariana is one of our very favorite importers. Tonight she presents the wines of Orly Lumbreras. A sound engineer by training, Lumbreras’ passion for music infuses his wine labels, his analogies for farming, and his winemaking processes alike. His first cellar mate was Alfredo Maestro, who introduced him to the austere, highest-elevation, outer reaches of the Alto Alberche winegrowing zone in the Sierra de Gredos, in addition to influencing his natural style of making wine. Orly operates on instinct in adopting vineyards, committing to farming challenging sites in virtually untouched corners of the Gredos, including abandoned vineyards of Grenache that may never yield fruit again. In 2015, this instinct led him to take on the challenge of learning to farm organically and biodynamically in Galicia, collaborating with viticulturist friends in Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro to make some of his most interesting wines yet.
Join us tonight in welcoming our dear friend, the very passionate, very smart, very f’ingkillingit Ariana Rolich to walk you through this fascinating gentleman’s fantastic wines. Let there be WINE, BREAD, CHEESE, and VINYL!
Orly Lumbreras, Chass!
A beautiful orange wine with a gorgeous apricot color – light, pretty and tannic with a distinct mineral core. Only 1800 bottles produced. Classic go-to wine that won’t be around long enough. In fact, this orange Chasselas may remind you of Roberto Henriquez’ Super Estrella (Corinto is the name they use for this grape in Chile.) Orly’s Chass is 100% Chasselas Dore from a 1.1 ha southwest facing vineyard at 765m altitude in the town of Cebreros, planted in 1950 and totally surrounded by sotobosque (rosemary, thyme, balsamic scents.) Pressed from skins after 20 days maceration and returned to stainless steel tank for three and a half months before bottling. Get it! $30
Orly Lumbreras, Vertixe Mencía 2017
This wine kind of blew our minds. We taste a lot of Mencia, ‘cause why not?? But this is whole different animal. Quite recognizable as the variety but with a forests-brambly woodsy note that wraps that floral red beauty in a slightly feral package. Yum! Vertixe (“Vertigo”) is a collaboration between Orly Lumbreras and the dynamic pair of Antonio Lopez Casa and Maria Aira, whose family vineyards around the wild and remote winemaking vintage of Vilacha de Salvadur gave rise to their exciting new winery: Adega Sernande. 100% Mencia from 60-year-old vines planted on a steep slate slope at 600m altitude in the village of Trasmonte (population: 11 people) overlooking the Sil River canyon in the Ribeira Sacra. Viticulturist Jose Aira (brother of Maria) has always worked this vineyard organically. Since 2015, Orly has started incorporating biodynamic methods as well, which yields markedly more resilient, healthy fruit across diverse vintages. Fermented with 30% stems in open vats, foot-trodden, with five month in old barrels. F*#K! $33e
Orly Lumbreras, Sierra de Gredos “Milagritos” Garnacha 2018
Wait! Does this wine taste like SMOKE & ANIMAL FUR? SH$T YEAH! Exceptionally pretty violet color. 100% Garnacha from three parcels (60-75 years old) on decomposed granitic sandy soil at over 1000m altitude in Navalmoral de la Sierra (Navamelque zone). Harvested between October 2nd and 4th, 70% of the grapes were fermented in 1000L concrete vat with 25% whole cluster (foot-treading during the first few days, and thereafter merely keeping the cap moist), macerated for 3-4 weeks then pressed to sixth-use 225L barrels for three months. 30% of the grapes were fermented and raised for 10months in an old, recovered amphora from the tinaja factory down the road in El Tiemblo. Wines from barrel were blended in a 1000L flexcube and allowed to harmonized for 6-7 months. The final blend was made in stainless steel tank. 1246 bottles were made. $27????GTFOOH!
Orly Lumbreras, Stereo Riberio Red 2017
’Tis a rare wine, sirrah! Rich, ripe, red high-acid, excellent balance. We could drink this wine every day. But we can’t! Not for long anyway. In 2016 Orly Lumbreras met a man from the village of San Andres in Ribadavia who had a small, ancient plot behind his house, where he tended a “curruncho” of vines on granite soils and made wine for personal consumption. Orly convinced him to allow him to vinify his grapes in 2016 and Stereo was born. Varieties were harvested individually over the first week of September and fermented together in a chestnut foudre of 1000L with 30% stems and gentle foot treading for 3-4 days. After a short post-fermentation maceration, the wine was moved to fourth-use French barrels for malolactic conversion and 6 months of aging. But those days are over! Orly no longer has access to this tiny little backyard vineyard. Get it now! We think this is all that is left in the whole wide world! $32